Mehrangarh

A poem written by Duncan Filer. Dedicated to the wonderful day we met in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, India and explored the magic and majesty of this royal region.

 

Thank you for a wonderful day and for this beautiful memory Duncan.

 

Mehrangarh

As ever on the wings of a butterfly my heart is carried to you,

 

Lifted from the highest mountain top in a single beat of life,

 

Soaring high and free above my ancient fortress walls,

 

Plucked from the burning sands of the world,

 

To rise on warming thermals, lifted ever heavenwards,

 

Endless time held steady in your company,

 

So wholly blotted by the everythingness of your being

 

Lovelly…

By Duncan Filer

 

 

 

 

Madurai Tour Leader and Guide

I had the pleasure of meeting Mrs Malar, a dear friend of my friend Vijay whilst in India recently. Mrs Malar lives in Madurai in Tamil Nadu, South India and she took time out from her busy tour schedule to spend with me and show me around the incredible Meenakshi Temple in Madurai.

Mrs Malar was helpful and informative and made me feel very welcome. She was extremely knowledgable about the temple and the history of the Hindu religion.We were lucky to also be there the night before Shivaratri, Lord Shiva festival.

 

Meenakshi Temple - North Gate

The temple was alive with colours, people, music and rituals. I got to learn so much about this special day for the Hindus and see some incredible architecture. I was really blown away by the stunning colours and the warmth inside this beautiful place.

 

 

 

 

Mrs Malar is a tour guide for South India and she is based in Madurai, Tamil Nadu.

I strongly recommend contacting her to arrange your trip in this beautiful part of India:

Email: vizhimalar6@gmail.com

Mobile nos:

+91 956 6695 461

+91 98 651 41 000

+91 95 666 95 462

She is a cultural promotee and can show guests:

• Saree demonstration about Tamil culture for ladies
• meegandhi doing (henna)
• South Indian cuisine – Demo class, lunch and dinner
• Classical dance – Bharatha natiyam
• Classical karnatic, folk dance and music
• Religious explanation class
• Transport, food, accomodation and anything else you need can be arranged.

 

I hope you get the chance to meet Mrs Malar and enjoy the beauty and difference of South Indian culture.

World Read Aloud Day Celebrations – Dharamsala, India

March 7th is World Read Aloud Day! I was honoured to be invited to take part and read aloud to children whilst I travelled. It just so happened I was in the beautiful city of Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh, India.

The lovely bookshop where I picked up my books

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This beautiful backdrop is also home to some very sweet and very eager young children. I managed to find two places where I would be able to read to them.

Yong LLng Kindergarten

I was approached by the great people at Pratham books who I met through Twitter and saw one of their great stalls at the Kala Ghoda Festival in Mumbai. When I tweeted saying i’d seen them and I was in India, they invited me to take part in this great day and of course, I jumped at the chance.

Generally the lovely team at Pratham Books would send you a book that you could read on the day. Of course mine would have to be in English as my hindi is very basic and Tibetan is most certainly a foreign language to me. Unfortunately due to my constant moving around the place in India we couldn’t arrange to get the book to me. No dramas though. I found a lovely little book shop and found two great books, one about Australia and one about animals. Both with lots of pictures and not too many words.

I had no introductions there in Dharamsala so it was just trying to find a place there were children, or any age people, who wanted to read aloud with me. Obviously kids would appreciate it more so that was the best option. I was informed there was the Yong LLang Kindergarten and the Tibetan Childrens Village. So off I went.

Yong Llang Tibetan Kindergarten was beautiful. I asked the office if I could read to the children and they quickly organised for approcimately 40 bright and smiling little faces to come into a room so I could read to them. They were aged 3-5 and they sat patiently waiting for me to start my story. I read the Lion and the mouse as it was easy to translate and understand. There assistant teacher helped me and we had a super fun time making animal noises together. Rah for the lion and squeak squeak for the mouse. They got so into the story and loved reading along. They all clapped and cheered when I finished and it warmed my heart.

She broke my heart, so cute and she just loved holding this book!

As I thought we were over the assistant teacher said to me “They’re asking for another one.” So I read them the second book. It took longer to translate but they still enjoyed it and liked having me and the teacher tell them what was happening. The teacher said to me at the end that they really had fun and enjoyed it. The kids grasping on to my clothes and not letting me walk out the door was a testatment to this. They just loved looking at the books and trying to read it for themselves.

Don't go!!!

I then went on to the Tibetan Childrens Village and loved seeing again all the children in this great learning environment. The school has a policy of not interrupting the childrens schooling and program so I wasn’t able to read to them. I think this a great policy and I completely respect their focus on the children and their future. We did visit the library and got to see some of the children in a lesson which was lovely. I donated the 2 books to the library so that many children can enjoy reading them for many years to come.

I’m so thankful to Pratham Books for asking me to be a part of this wonderful day and for giving me the opportunity to have this experience with the children. I look forward to taking part again next year – no matter where in the world I will be.

Can’t get you outta my head

During a 10 day silent meditation the last thing you want is a song stuck in your head. My friend gave me a warning about this as some of the last words before I left but I think it was inevitable. Without any outside stimulation and no new tunes coming, concentration becomes crucial and the breath comes more important than ever.

My Vipassana location in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, India.

It is rather funny to observe what particular songs came into my head and for what reason- generally I cannot put a finger on it and it will boggle my mind for years to come.

Stan – Eminem

This one I kind of understand as the line I kept coming to is “I cut myself sometimes just to see how much it bleeds, the pain is such a sudden rush to me.” Now I’m not advocating or condoning self harm and I didn’t feel like doing this during the course thank goodness.  It was actually the “pain is such a sudden rush to me” which I actually felt during our vipassana sensations when a pulsing throbbing would come up somewhere in the body and we just observe it and not react like we habitually do. Great lesson.

Smelly Cat –Pheobe Buffet- FRIENDS

This one was a pain really. Why?? Why”?? I kept asking myself over and over. Really this proves I have the monkey mind – the chattering mind that wanders. And for an entire day I just kept coming back to it.

Bleeding Love – Leona Lewis

There are a lot of lines in this song that reminded me of what I’m going through. The title itself is great. I’m hurt, but I bleed love. We were being taught love and compassion so I actually really like this. She is going through pain in the song but still she loves. It’s also a song I really like so that was nice. “Everyone’s looking around thinking I’m going crazy.” Maybe I am….

Queen- I want to break free

I’m not so happy about this one as it implies that I was unhappy or wanted to run away from my Vipassana, which I didn’t. I was surprised actually during the week how happy and content I felt at pretty much all times. Though this song just would not escape me. Perhaps it’s to do with the fact that my room did somewhat resemble a prison cell and they did refer to it as our “cell”. On the other hand it could express my desire to want to break free from my old life and habits and welcome the change in me. Let’s go with that one, far more positive outlook!

What would be the worst song to get stuck in your head during meditation?

What’s your good name?

If I had a dollar for every time in a day I was asked for my good name in India, I would be buying polkee raw cut diamond jewellery in no time. The Indian people have a fascination with knowing my and I guess other foreigners story.

 

This is worth $US 8000

The conversation which I had multiple times today, tends to go along the lines of this:

 

-       Hello Miss… Maam.. Excuse me (alternatively) /Namaste

-       Which country?

-       Oh Australia – cricket!

-       What is your good name?

-       Emma, that’s a very nice name

-       First trip to India?

-       6^th trip to India!!

-       You speaking the hindi?

-       Are you a student?

-       What is job you are having?

-       How long you stay?

-       Where you go next?

-       Miss? Miss?

-       Photo with you please.

 

Most of the time I’m happy to oblige and I’ll answer a few questions and have a bit of a chat. However, after having the above conversation 10 times consecutively, you will only be receiving one word answers from me. Generally if I feel the motive is just to get my picture, I may be shorter. If they are trying to sell me something – I don’t really engage at all. Nahi chai yeh – No, I don’t want it.

Where I wrote this post - Dharamsala, India

 

I sound like a horrible , stuck up and arrogant traveler but really I just feel as though I’m experiencing Déjà vu. The same series of questions over and over – where do I come from, who am I and where am I going. I’m just a bit tired and when walking next to stunning scenery and beautiful waterfalls, I’d actually rather just take in the environment without the chatter.

Thank you for your kind interest in me, but (bas) stop, I’m tired. Actually very much looking forward to my 10 days silence where I cannot engage in conversation, make eye contact or have any other form of communication with another living soul.

Photo please miss. Taken at Gulmarg, Kashmir, India.

Coal baskets in Kashmir

When I was first advised that Kashmiri people where a woven basket full of scorching hot coals under their coats, I wouldn’t believe it. Especially coming from a fellow Aussie and a bogan at that. But after a quick demonstration by a passing Kashmiri man I was a believer.

The tradition is to where this woolen overcoat with wide sleeves and then take the woven basket full of coals in one hand and hold it close to your belly. The coal basket is called a Jangri and it’s the most popular and inexpensive way to keep warm. The 4 handles on top allow you to get your hands as close to the coals as possible without burning  whilst keeping extremely warm.

 

I was lucky enough to visit a kashmiri home in Tangmarg and had freezing feet after trekking through the slushy snow to get to the house. They gave me a big blanket and the woven basket of coals and told me to place my feet on it- within 5 mins I was toasty warm and had forgotten about my near frostbite toes.

Keeping warm with Grandmum with a Kangri at my feet

 

I also got to use the basket after catching the shikara, low row boat, over the Dal Lake and my fingers and upper body were freezing. I held onto the basket in the car and actually had to put it down after getting too toasty warm.

It looks crazy – but the system works, gonna go get me one of the toasty warm coal baskets for tonight I think.

 

Varanasi in Pictures

Varanasi is a mixed bag for me. I didn’t love it but I certainly didn’t hate it. A city of intricacy, diversity, complexity and chaos. Mostly chaos.

Something draws us here though. It’s is the Hindu pilgramage site where they meet Mother Ganga, their beloved Ganges river.

 

Cremations and burnings happen by and in the river.

 

Saddhu’s come here and enter their 3rd and 4th stages.

 

Thousands of people bathe in this river daily.

 

And there are temples everywhere. Often called the city of Temples or the city of death….

 

Varanasi, thank you for the experience. I’ll be back for sure.

Delhi Dangers….. well cautions

Delhi is a fabulous city and one of the best lad our tourist cities in India.

Residential colony outside Delhi. Gurgaon.

I love Delhi due to my wonderful friends there and the homestays I’ve had over the years. Their hospitality and generosity never ceases to amaze me.

Attending a dear friends wedding in Delhi

However, it also has quite a rep for being quite rough and dangerous. Ask any Delhite and they will tell you never (especially as a woman) to travel alone at night. The city is recognised as dangerous for locals and for foreigners visiting the city. I’ve never personally had any trouble there and really dislike this reputation this wonderful city has now obtained. But warnings should be taken and caution should be observed.

Parliament of India

Here is a great post from Traveldudes with some info on the dangers that may be:

http://traveldudes.org/travel-tips/avoiding-scams-and-touts-delhi-india/2483

Scams and touts are common in India and knowing in advance how to avoid can save you a lot of trouble. You may also like to see my post on the Milk Powder Scam. 

Also beware in Delhi of the famous Delhi Belly. It struck me 3 times on my most recent trip. The only answer….. Imodium! Plenty of it! And sleep and water.

Bangle shopping in Delhi

Please do visit Delhi and appreciate it for the historic, cultural and vibrant city it is.

 

Celebrating Holi on 8th March in ever colourful Delhi

Kerala – Fort Kochin

The beautiful state of  Kerala did not fail in impressing me with it’s beauty and peaceful calm. Palm trees, sunsets, calm waters and beautiful rich spices. Kerala is a tropical paradise. Here are some of my favourite photos from my time there.

 

Stunning sunsets every night

Learning about the delicious spices of India

Every day life in Fort Kochin

A fisherman Jo who told me about his business earning money getting rubbish out of the water. Helping the environment.

 

 

 

 

Our sneaky tea.... Beer in a teapot due to strict liquor licences in Kerala

Kerala Backwaters Tour

Kerala is famous for it’s beautiful backwaters – a series of canals and back alley like waterways lined with stunning tropical plants.

 

On this amazing tour we took a long boat over a few hours along the river and through the villages which line the waterways.

We got out and met villagers and were walked through the farm with all the wonderful spices used in delicious Indian cooking.

 

We watch a woman making ropes made of coconut strings – coir rope. A fascinating experience.

 

We then take one of the fabulous house boats….

 

To enjoy a delicious traditional lunch on the banana leaf.

 

Backwater tour of Kerala – A must do!